Roads Less Traveled Italy
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Solo Adventures in Salento Puglia June 10, 2021
Since my husband is not quite as crazy about traveling as I am (I can get him to go on one international trip per year), I’ve found myself traveling solo on several occasions. For other countries, this might be on a small group tour, but for Italy, it’s just me, allowing me to explore at my own pace and use my language skills to get around as well as to get to know people while I’m traveling!
One of my fondest solo trips was in the Salento area of Puglia – the tip of the heel of the boot! Having already visited the key towns of Lecce and Otranto, I chose Gallipoli on the west coast, and the tiny town of Muro Leccese as my bases. Gallipoli was a seaside dream…I stayed at the lovely Palazzobarba Guesthouse, overlooking the harbor. Not only was it a perfect location in the old center, but the hosts were charming and extremely helpful!
Traveling solo has both highs and lows. I love the freedom to go wherever I want, whenever. This played out in Gallipoli when I decided to take the train to Nardo. While it’s a charming town, there isn’t much to see or do there, so I found myself shifting gears midstream. What a great choice! I hired a car to take me to the fantastic Porto Selvaggio Nature Park. Fortunately, I had packed my swimsuit with this possibility in mind…Here, I walked the trail through the pine forest to find a stunning, family friendly, free beach. After a nice swim and an iced coffee, I made my way back to the road and took a long walk toward the bus stop to head back to Gallipoli (Thank God for Google Maps!).!
One of the challenges of solo travel for me is eating alone. I always have a book on my phone to keep me occupied. That being said, eating in Puglia is an absolute delight for the senses. I had the pleasure of dining on Gamberi Viola, the famed purple shrimp of Gallipoli, at La Vinaigrette in the Centro Storico. The succulent, raw shrimp are lightly coated in olive oil and lemon, and voila, you have a feast of extraordinary flavor.
My next stop, at Muro Leccese, was based on both my desire to experience the Festa di Santa Domenica, which takes place every July in nearby Scorrano, and the opportunity to stay at the charming Tenuta Sant’Andrea. Matteo was a wonderful host, who helped me set up rides and suggested all kinds of opportunities for me to enjoy while there. Although experiencing the festa was an absolute highlight, I also had the opportunity to take a pasta making class at the Tenuta, as well as borrowing a bike to ride to La Cutura, a unique and fascinating botanical garden that specializes in Cacti.
Not to miss out on some of the southern beaches, I took the bus one day to Castro. What a nice surprise! Not only did I have a great fresh seafood lunch and a wonderful swim in warm turquoise waters, but I learned that Castro was an ancient town, and had the chance to visit its Aragonese Castle and Museum.
This stop ended the solo portion of my trip; next up was some time with my college aged daughter in northern Puglia. But, more on that another time…